What’s it like to board a ten-thousand-ton ship and embark on a 4-day, 3-night cruise down the Yangtze, China’s largest river?
When my family of six hopped off the subway at Chaotianmen Wharf, we found ourselves on the third floor of a shopping mall, instead of underground. This is the unique magic of Chongqing, a southwestern Chinese mega-city carved almost entirely into steep hills beside the Yangtze River.
From the subway stop, we faced the daunting task of dragging our luggage several stories down and crossing a busy road to reach the cruise terminal. However, we knew our cargo would be in good hands. “Want me to carry your luggage? 10 yuan apiece,” multiple middle-aged men asked us, holding wooden sticks in their hands. They are Chongqing’s renowned porters-for-hire, called bangbang (棒棒) or “stick stick men” after the shoulder poles they use to tote heavy wares.
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