Sea Nomad Cover
Photo Credit: Zhong Ming
LIFE

Gone Ashore: Inside the Vanishing World of China’s “Sea Nomads”

How three generations of a family gradually gave up riding the waves off Hainan’s coast

In 2019, I accompanied a friend to Wanning, Hainan, to check out apartments. Our realtor was 26-year-old Ah Jin. His skin was a deep brown, and he was wearing a pair of cheap sandals. The collar of his t-shirt had long since stretched out, and he spoke with a thick Hainan accent. But he was handsome, clear-eyed, and tall, with a visibly muscled chest. We complimented him on his physique, but he just chuckled. “The only entertainment I had as a child was swimming in the ocean—it’s all due to the exercise.”

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